Markets of Paris

Margaret Kemp

December 01, 2023

Ernest Hemingway’s description of Paris as a “moveable feast” reflects my feelings for the city. I love his love of Paris, and when the sunlight shines on a market stall and a kindly trader pops a few more succulent peaches in my bag, I often think of his evocative words.

Paris street markets date back to the 5th century — when the city’s name was Lutetia. Fast-forward to 2023 and it has more than 60 incredible open-air and/or covered markets. Every quartier is its own “village” where you’ll discover family-owned boulangeries, butchers, fishmongers, cheesemakers, knife-grinders, florists, international delicatessens, vintage clothes, furniture, and more, proudly displayed, showcasing unique traditional skills on beautifully presented stalls.

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” Ernest Hemingway

Markets of Paris 1 — Image credit: Shutterstock

Markets of Paris 2 — Image credit: Shutterstock

MARCHÉ ALIGRE

Between La Bastille and Place de la Nation, 12th Arrondissement
Tuesday to Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Metro: Ledru-Rollin

For Terrance Gelenter, author and founder of Your American Friend in Paris, Marché Aligre in the 12th arrondissement is an exciting choice for top-class affordable produce. “Aligre features an outdoor area plus indoor stalls piled high with vintage clothing and curiosities at the adjacent Beauvau Market (inaugurated in 1781),” he explains. Gelenter gets his coffee fix (a noisette) at Café Aouba. “No tables, I stand drinking in the perfume of the freshly roasted espresso beans before snagging the best seasonal produce and my essential tins of Harissa,” he says, adding that Le Baron Rouge bar is a favorite for oysters, charcuterie, and French wine from the barrel.

MARCHÉ RASPAIL

Boulevard Raspail, 6th Arrondissement
Tuesday and Friday from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Metro: Rennes

“Since the 1920s, Marché Raspail has been one of the capital’s must-visit markets – the colors and scents are mouth-watering!” recommends food critic Jean-Louis Galesne. Discover it on the Left Bank between Rue du Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes. Here, traditional (aproned and capped) French traders ply their wares alongside purveyors of Asian, Portuguese, and Italian specialties. On Sunday (from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.), the produce sold is 100% organic. Galesne also recommends keeping an eye out for some famous local faces, including Gérard Depardieu, Sofia Coppola, and Laetitia Casta.

MARCHÉ AUX TIMBRES DE PARIS

Avenue de Marigny, 8th Arrondissement
Thursday, Saturday, Sunday, and public holidays from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Metro: Champs Élysées-Clemenceau

Since 1888, philatelists have flocked to the Marché aux Timbres de Paris where there’s a definite club atmosphere around the fascinating stalls on Avenue de Marigny/Avenue Gabriel. The curious will find stamps, calling cards, postcards, and curiosities to exchange or buy. It’s well worth a visit before some serious retail therapy on the Champs-Élysées.

MARCHÉ AVENUE PRÉSIDENT WILSON

16th Arrondissement
Wednesday and Saturday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Metro: Alma-Marceau

“I never tire of the stunning Eiffel Tower view at this fabulous market in the 16th arrondissement,” raves local resident Brigitte Baranes, a real estate property consultant. “It weaves its exciting way along ‘museum mile’ past the Palais de Tokyo and Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris.” Flowers, fruits, fish, meat, cheeses, pastries, and breads weigh down the market stands here, and the well-heeled residents of this chic neighborhood are fascinating to watch. “The star of the market is Joël Thiébault, specializing in beautiful heirloom vegetable varieties and much more, he’s a supplier to Michelin-star chefs,” adds Baranes.

VANVES FLEA MARKET

Avenue Marc Sangnier and Avenue Georges Lafenestre, 14th Arrondissement
Saturday and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Metro: Porte de Vanves

Vanves Flea Market is, after the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, the largest brocante (flea market) in the Paris area. Almost 400 stalls display their wares at weekends, including art, vintage costume jewelry, clothing, and much more. Find dinner plates hand-painted with historical French scenes and 1950s-style glass cabinets filled with buttons, brooches, and bows. Further on, neat piles of antique serviettes, crisply pressed, are stacked next to ornate fish knives and carving utensils, and paintings are propped against chairs. Expect to see such sights as enthusiasts cooing over photographs of Marlon Brando while a bearded coin enthusiast peers through a magnifying glass at an old French franc.

Markets of Paris 3 — Image credit: Shutterstock

BRANCUSI FARMERS MARKET

Place Brancusi, 14th Arrondissement
Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Metro: Gaité – Joséphine Baker

Brancusi Farmers Market, located near Montparnasse Tower and Place de Catalogne, is a small, chic, “insider” organic market with superb cheesemongers, fishmongers, butchers, grocers, wine producers, and wine sellers. Everything is top quality, and if you’re seeking unusual, exotic provisions such as jujube fruit, honey from the Champagne Valley, fragrant fresh herbs, artisan breads, and pastries, you’re in the best place. Book Ciel de Paris restaurant on the 56th floor of Montparnasse Tower for the best views in town. Chef Christophe Marchais’ exciting vegetarian menu showcases seasonal produce grown in and around Paris.

MARCHÉ DES ENFANTS ROUGES

39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd Arrondissement
Tuesdays to Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Sundays from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Metro: Temple

Located in the historic and buzzing Marais district, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, which opened in 1615, is Paris’ oldest covered market, designated a Monument Historique. If you’re planning a picnic there’s a fabulous choice of international delicacies – including 13 different flavors of couscous at the Traiteur Marocain. Take your pick and head to the nearby Square du Temple – Elie Wiesel. Street foodies will definitely appreciate the aromas and tastes at Chez Alain Miam Miam where the sandwiches are epic, and so is the line! If you’re lucky enough to be staying in the Marais, it’s the perfect spot to stock up on snacks for your hotel room.

MARCHÉ BASTILLE

Boulevard Richard Lenoir, 11th Arrondissement
Thursday from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sunday from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. (arts and crafts market on Saturday)
Metro: Bastille

On the wide Boulevard Richard-Lenoir, between Rue Amelot and Rue Saint-Sabin, Marché Bastille is one of the largest markets in Paris, with more than 100 stalls offering a huge range of fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, and pastries. Vendors from the stalls call out their bargains, enticing you with tantalizing aromas, while street musicians strum and sing, adding to the Edith Piaf atmosphere. All this activity goes down well with a falafel sandwich and freshly pressed juices. On Saturdays, an interesting arts and crafts market struts its eclectic wares and you can bargain for Parisian art, sculpture, ceramics, and fashion.

MARCHÉ DE MONTORGUEIL

Rue Montorgueil, 2nd Arrondissement
Thursday and Sunday from 12 p.m. to 12 a.m.
Metro: Sentier

The bustling, pedestrian Rue Montorgueil market is located where old Paris and new Paris meet. No visit is complete without joining the line at No. 51 – La Maison Stohrer, created in 1730 by Nicolas Stohrer, King Louis XV’s pastry chef. Two specialties – puits d’amour (love pots) and baba au rhum (rum-saturated cake) are still baked from Stohrer’s original 18th-century recipes. In the mood for something savory? Alain Neyman, creator of review site lesrestos.com, recommends L’Escargot Montorgueil (Burgundy snails with foie gras) along with a glass of Domaine Chiroulet. Enjoy the delicious scent of quality products from greengrocers, butchers, seafood vendors, and cheesemakers. Fashionistas (think Emily in Paris) love the hip boutiques, which are pure theater!