Finland: A Nordic Gem

Tips for exploring the Land of a Thousand Lakes

Often lumped together, each of the five Nordic nations (Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden), actually possesses its own unique character. Finland, the easternmost of the five, is known for its hundreds of thousands of lakes, its saunas — which number about three for every five Finnish citizens — and, heartwarmingly, for being the happiest country in the world. If that’s not a ringing endorsement for planning a visit to Finland, it’s hard to say what would be.

The Finns’ claim to peak global happiness is attributed at least in part to their deep connection to nature. The country is swathed in forest, covering about three-quarters of its land, which has the bonus of providing some of the cleanest air on the planet. Its nickname of “Land of a Thousand Lakes” is warranted, if understated, as the country has nearly 188,000 of them in varying sizes. Though more frequently visible from the more northern reaches of the country, the magical northern lights can sometimes be seen even in Finland’s southern cities, including its capital city, Helsinki. With that much natural beauty all around, combined with a very defined summer season in which to fully embrace it, it’s not surprising that people are eager to get outside. 

“During the summer, which is very short — June, July, August — you want to be near the water,” says my friend Maarit Baker, who lives in Southern California but was raised in Helsinki. “I grew up on the Baltic Sea [and] we always had a sailboat, and sailing along the Baltic Sea from Helsinki in either direction is really fun, almost like camping. You can park your boat at different islands that have services like showers and saunas — always have to have a sauna — fire pits, and restaurants, and you can go island-hopping.”

Sightseeing tours abound from Helsinki and offer an array of options, from leisurely sails on a traditional schooner to sunset cruises and private boat charters — even a midnight sun kayak tour. If you’re looking to soak in more than the view of the islands from the water, ferries depart Helsinki regularly to several islands, leaving you to choose your own destination based on what interests you. Among the most popular islands are Suomenlinna, with its UNESCO-listed sea fortress, and Pihlajasaari, an island that was formerly home to private villas where people can now picnic, grill, and sit on the beach to watch the boats glide by.

Helsinki is a natural destination for visitors to Finland. Explore the city’s many museums — spanning fine art to contemporary and modernist work — as well as its landmarks, most notably Helsinki Cathedral and the unique Temppeliaukio Church, aptly nicknamed Rock Church since it was created by excavating solid rock and is mostly subterranean, save for its copper dome. Dining is exceptional; plan ahead if you’re looking to experience the height of Finnish cuisine at one of its one- or two-Michelin-Star destinations, as reservations are often booked far in advance. Undoubtedly, the most purely Finnish experience is a visit to a sauna. Deeply entrenched in the culture, no visit is complete without relaxing in the sauna’s restorative heat and steam. On the waterfront, Löyly combines a restaurant and broad terraces with both private and public saunas. Maarit enjoys taking visitors here for the unique experience of leaping straight from the saunas into the freezing Baltic Sea in wintertime for an invigorating plunge. 

Public transit is top notch in Helsinki, making day trips on the mainland a breeze. Porvoo is a short train or roughly one-hour bus ride from Helsinki, and transports visitors to a historic setting, complete with cobblestone streets and colorfully painted wooden houses, with ample shopping, sightseeing, and a robust café culture. About two hours away is Hanko, on the southern tip of the country in a region known as the Finnish Riviera. “When I was growing up, there were few tourists,” remembers Maarit. “It's just these beautiful waterfront beaches and restaurants and cute little villages.” 

For a truly unforgettable adventure, take an overnight train north to Lapland. A wonder for adults and kids alike awaits at Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi, a year-round destination that celebrates the warmth of Christmas and so much more. Yes, you can meet Santa Claus, but from here, there are a multitude of activities to try, from mountain biking, hiking, and horseback riding to dog sledding and snowmobiling. The Arctic Circle runs directly through Santa Claus village, clearly marked so you can stand with one foot inside and one outside the circle. Here, experience the unique Midnight Sun, when the sun doesn’t set from early June to early July, as well as the opportunity to view the mesmerizing beauty of the northern lights, typically around the fall and spring equinoxes.

Back in Helsinki, you’re a two-hour ferry ride away from Estonia, a former Eastern Bloc country that sits just across the Baltic Sea. The medieval town of Tallinn, Estonia’s capital, greets you on the other side with charming cobblestone lanes with artisans, cafés, churches and cathedrals, and the UNESCO-listed, historic Tallinn Town Hall. As part of the European Union, this is an easy trip for visitors from Finland — its diminutive size makes it easily explored in a day trip if you prefer to ferry back to your hotel in Helsinki in the evening.