Going Nordic: Hygge, Saunas, and Endless Summer Sun

Embark on a journey through Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland and discover rich cultures and dramatic landscapes

Famous for cobbled lanes lined with timber houses, the warm scent of cinnamon wafting from welcoming cafés, lakeside saunas, and contemporary design, the four Nordic nations of Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland feature frequently on lists of the world’s happiest places – with each also offering its own twist on the now globally popular concept of cozy, homey contentment known as hygge in Danish.  

In this region’s “happy” capitals of Copenhagen, Oslo, Stockholm, and Helsinki, coziness is a cultural touchstone surrounded by a stunning landscape waiting for you. Set out to find your personal hygge on your own Nordic tour de force featuring urban exploration, exhilarating rail rides, and voyages through seemingly infinite archipelagos.

The Danish capital welcomes with traces of Central European influences in its charming historic streets, contrasting with some of the world’s most striking post-modernist and contemporary architecture.  

Here, you can feel the trendsetting Nordic sense of style in the city’s design-forward culture – from sleekly arrayed boutiques and shops to compelling art and design destinations. The city also excels in innovative and elegant dining, including Michelin award-winning restaurants like Geranium and the performative “food as art” experience at Alchemist.  

Beyond the well-known sites, discover more of the city in a quintessentially Danish way – on two wheels. In a city where bicycles are treated as traffic royalty, rent a bike from your hotel or pick up one of the e-bikes available from stations around the city. Pedal or stroll across Langebro harbor bridge or take the Metro to the island of Amager for a taste of local life.  

Let yourself be lured into one of the many cafés by the irresistible aroma of fresh kanelsnegle (cinnamon “snail”) pastries. The “snail” refers to its shape (not its ingredients), and these gently spiced Danish treats are simply delicious. 

From Copenhagen, head northeast across the sea to the Norwegian capital of Oslo. Set snug at the head of one of the country’s iconic fjords, this waterfront city is an excellent scene for strolling. Take to the streets and head for charming lanes lined with 19th-century wooden houses, such as on Telthusbakken and Damstredet. For a longer leg-stretch, follow the winding trail along the Akerselva river or head out along the Alnaelva river, which passes through the forest of Svartdal. For an aquatic diversion, take a ferry for a harbor cruise to reach the Kon-Tiki Museum, recording the seaborne adventures of explorer Thor Heyerdahl.  

When hunger sets in, Helt Vilt – one of many restaurants and bars in the Mathallen market hall – has a choice of game meat dishes, including moose, venison, reindeer, and wild boar. As the closest of the four capitals to the open North Sea, Oslo is also the best in which to sample fresh seafood, and Youngstorget restaurant has an especially good menu, as well as a filling seafood buffet. 

A five-and-a-half-hour train ride takes you from Oslo to Stockholm. Wind through classic Nordic landscapes of forests and lakes to reach the Swedish capital, which, like its Norwegian and Danish cousins, sits on the water. Stockholm sprawls across hundreds of islands dotted with well-preserved historic architecture, glorious parks, and lively museums.  

On arrival, a stroll around the Gamla Stan (Old Town) is a good way to get your bearings. Take the opportunity to head underground, too, though – the Blue line through the city center is billed as the “world’s longest art gallery” and features fabulously colorful ceilings and elevator areas, with work by 150 artists across 90 of the 100 Metro stations. 

You don’t have to be a fan of the band to enjoy ABBA The Museum, close to the Skansen open-air museum of traditional buildings. ABBA is Sweden’s best-known musical export, and to leave the museum with your ears abuzz with their hits is an essential Stockholm experience.  

On the other side of town, the Fotografiska Stockholm museum of photography, art, and culture is a beautiful space with a changing menu of photographic exhibitions and excellent harborside restaurant. The museum is covered by the Stockholm Pass, which gives you access to more than 70 attractions in the city. The Södermalm district, a fashionable residential area, is a 15-minute walk from here – make a date with Nytorget 6, a bustling restaurant that’s popular with locals and recommended for its mouth-watering brunch menu and cocktails. 

The Viking Line or Silja Line ferry from Stockholm to Finland meanders through a seemingly endless and blissful archipelago of forested islands and rugged skerries before reaching open sea. The night ferry heads to the capital, Helsinki; a daytime alternative offers more fabulous views of another archipelago, the Åland Islands, before docking at the southwest Finnish city of Turku, where trains run to Helsinki.  

Also on the waterfront, Helsinki’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed Suomenlinna sea fortress is unmissable. A 15-minute ferry ride from the quayside Market Square takes you to this cluster of islands with their preserved 19th-century fortifications, snug cafés (Cafe Silo is recommended), museums, and rugged shorelines.  

Suomenlinna feels a world away from Helsinki’s ever-expanding modernity, which comes to life at the subterranean Amos Rex art museum specializing in large-scale multimedia shows. Oodi, the Helsinki Central Library, was conceived as a “living room” for Helsinki citizens and is one of the best examples of modern public architecture in the Nordic region. 

But for a truly authentic Finnish experience, book a session at the traditional wood-fired community Kotiharjun sauna in the Kallio district and work up a sweat – and maybe a conversation – with your fellow sauna-goers. 

After a sweat, you’ll undoubtedly have an appetite. For local character slightly off the main track, Sea Horse restaurant is a great option specializing in classic and comforting Finnish seafood dishes.  

A final experience? Savor an oven-fresh, special version of the cinnamon bun, the korvapuusti, at the tiny Café Succès, the seductive aroma of which is the very essence of this northern region.