Nature's Bounty

Immerse yourself in the beauty of the fall with this leisurely road trip taking in some of North America’s most spectacular leaf-peeping spots

Living in the northeast of the United States, I eagerly await that one week each September that solidifies the change of seasons. For me, the glory of the fall somehow compensates for some of the harshness of winter yet to come. Almost overnight, the air takes on a certain recognizable crispness. The sun is still hot but the wind brings a discernible chill. Little creatures everywhere are perkier, as they busily stash away food for the colder months.

These signs tell you it’s only a matter of weeks before the landscape changes entirely. The trees will lose their uniform, medium green and burst into golds, reds, oranges, and even purples. This is the last hurrah — one spectacular colorful finale before a winter hibernation.

A fall foliage road trip is part of the annual tradition. It doesn’t matter what your destination is, apple cider, doughnuts, hiking, and pumpkins tend to be involved. The beauty is in the journey this time of year. There’s nothing quite like meandering along back roads and through the scenic towns marveling at the Jackson Pollock-esque distribution of fiery colors in the mountains and valleys.

Allow 10 days to tackle this roaming, two-country itinerary that takes you from New York City through New York State, Vermont, and into Quebec and Nova Scotia. Of course, feel free to take longer to stop and admire the landscape if the whimsy of Mother Nature’s artistry inspires you.

When the colors start to change, New Yorkers head up the Palisades Interstate Parkway to Bear Mountain, one of the most popular lookouts in the New York metropolitan area. There are plenty of quick hiking trails throughout the state park, but for the most impressive vistas, drive to the top — look for the Perkins Memorial Tower — and gaze out over the colorful hills and valleys of the Hudson Highlands and Harriman State Park.

Heading north into rural New York State, you’ll encounter the warm days and cold nights of the enchanting Finger Lakes region. Each of the 11 lakes has its own vibe, but all are resplendent this time of year when it’s still possible to get out on the water. This is the wine-growing region of New York — and most tastings come with beautiful views.

Ithaca is at the southern end of Cayuga Lake, the longest of the glacial Finger Lakes. Bumper stickers and T-shirts proudly proclaim that “Ithaca is gorges” and it won’t take long to see why. At 215 feet, the spectacular Taughannock Falls — one of 150 waterfalls in the area — is three stories taller than Niagara Falls. After wandering through Buttermilk Falls State Park, try a hand-foraged wild apple cider at South Hill Cider. The female-owned Bet the Farm Winery in Trumansburg serves up dry wines alongside one of the best views of Cayuga Lake.

The quaint town of Aurora recently became a wellness destination along Cayuga Lake with the opening of the Inns of Aurora’s impressive new spa, where floor-to-ceiling windows showcase uninterrupted views. Immerse yourself in the fall’s beauty with lakefront yoga, archery, hiking, forest bathing, or kayaking. A specially designed nature trail offers several unbelievable vistas and Lakeview Ridge is particularly dazzling at sunset.

Picturesque Montpelier feels like stepping into a painting with its tall, steepled churches surrounded by feisty reds, oranges, and yellows. The 1859 Vermont State House — open for self-guided tours — is one of the oldest and best-preserved examples in the country, with some of the state’s best art inside. If you’re hungry, stop by local favorites Three Penny Taproom or Morse Farm Maple Sugarworks for food and craft beer.

Keep an eye out for the many covered bridges throughout Vermont. East of Woodstock on Route 4, the bright red Taftsville Covered Bridge, built in 1836, is one of the oldest in the state.

 The Woodstock Inn & Resort is a gem in Vermont’s Green Mountains, which trade in most of their green for bursts of red and yellow at this time of year. The hotel’s chairlift to the top of a ski slope is the perfect leisurely trip through the scenery. On-site experts can help plan fall foliage hikes and picnics on some of the property’s 47 acres.

Woodstock itself is a picturesque and walkable town with plenty of Federal, Georgian, and Greek Revivalist architecture. Step back in time in the country store F. H. Gillingham & Sons, which has sold a little bit of everything since 1886.

One of Vermont’s most beautiful landscapes, a wander along the woodland trails at Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park offers up sugar maples and 400-year-old hemlocks along the water. However, if you really want commune with the trees, the Forest Canopy Walk at the Vermont Institute of Natural Science in nearby Quechee brings you 65 feet above the Ottauquechee River. Considered Vermont’s “Grand Canyon,” Quechee Gorge is best viewed by the Route 4 bridge.

Undoubtedly, the jewel in Nova Scotia’s leaf-peeping crown is the Cabot Trail. Weaving through 186 miles of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, this exceptional driving route alternates between colorful valleys and sparkling coastal views. Within a few minutes, you’ll understand why this route is world-renowned, especially during the first or second week of October when the colors reach their peak.

Aside from gasping at the spectacular crimsons, oranges, and golds that blanket the highlands, diversions along the way include Kidston Island Lighthouse and whale watching at Pleasant Bay. For stunning sunset views over the foliage and ocean, the Skyline Trail is hard to beat.

The famous maple leaf flag hints at how spectacular Canada is when the sugar maples turn their stunning red. For some of the best vistas of Quebec’s Eastern Townships, visit Mont Orford National Park. Hike to one or more of the five wooden walkway lookouts — Mont-Mégantic, Memphrémagog, Stukely, Bonsecours, and Circuit Altitude — to be rewarded with incredible panoramic views. The last is a challenge to find but if you do, you’ll be rewarded with scenery that reaches all the way back to the United States.

After driving through the Acadian-forested landscape of New Brunswick, you’ll reach Fox Harbour, Nova Scotia, which juts into the Northumberland Strait. While this is a coastal region, there are still plenty of vibrant scenes to find such as Wentworth Valley and Wentworth Provincial Park for their spectacularly colorful panoramas across the Cobequid Hills. For a historical detour, the 1874 Balmoral Grist Mill is a restored water-powered mill with a scenic walking trail that looks like something out of a Norman Rockwell painting.

Enjoy a locally made whiskey at Caldera Distilling or a maple vodka or a rhubarb gin at Steinhart Distillery. For excellent chowder, take your pick from the four spots on the Nova Scotia Chowder Trail on the Northumberland shore: Gabrieau’s Bistro, Main Street Café and Lounge, Nook & Cranny Tata, and Snow Queen.