Prague

One of Europe’s magical, perfectly preserved cities, Prague is enchanting both for the first-time traveler and the frequent visitor. But the city is changing with the times. While certain sights can be revisited again and again, even a short stay can now include an excursion into one of the fashionable new neighborhoods – the perfect opportunity to discover designer ateliers, contemporary art galleries, and hip restaurants.

DUCK, DUCK . . .

Located in an opulent 16th-century mansion, The Blue Duckling is a romantic maze of tiny, sumptuously decorated dining rooms. Vegetarian options are in short supply, as the chef pays homage to traditional Czech recipes with rich dishes such as flame-grilled venison with rose hip berries, succulent duck braised with apples, raisins, and honey, and grilled pheasant smothered with a dark beer and almond sauce. Be sure to try a surprising bottle of elegant Frankovka wine from the local Moravia vineyards. umodrekachnicky.cz/en/

LOCAL LEGEND

In the country spuriously regarded to have given the world Budweiser, it’s no surprise Prague is a paradise for beer lovers. Far from the packed city-center beer halls, the secluded Hradcany quarter boasts a hidden gem. The historic Black Ox and its beautiful pastel frescoes were saved from developers when a local association of beer drinkers clubbed together to preserve the genuine local pub. Try a foaming mug of the locally brewed pilsner, probably the world’s most unpronounceable beer — Velkopopovický Kozel.

MODERN EATERY

The Prague dining scene now extends to a new generation of designer restaurants located a little outside the historical center, offering creative, modern cuisine. A 15-minute taxi ride to the bohemian Holešovice quarter takes you to The Eatery, whose minimalist, industrial-style interiors are dominated by a lively open kitchen where young chefs select local, seasonal ingredients to prepare surprising dishes: crunchy marinated red and yellow beetroot with goat yogurt, creamy white asparagus soup, or delicate fillets of freshwater char paired with broccoli and smoked trout sauce. theeatery.cz/en/

HANDMADE WONDERS

Behind the iconic graffiti decorating the John Lennon Wall (a magnet for global Instagrammers), discover Aladdin’s Cave of Artisème, a cutting-edge store showcasing the hottest young Czech talents in jewelry, interior décor, and ceramics. Imagine wine glasses made from seashells, a glam chandelier-style basketball hoop, crystalline rock silver earrings, or a handmade chalice vase combining antique Bohemian glass with raw concrete. After browsing, wander through the idyllic garden. artiseme.com

SLOW FASHION

While Czech designers may be little known outside their own country, fashionistas looking for an original outfit should check out the latest creations by Prague stylist Lucie Kutalkova. Described as “slow fashion,” the romantic, flowing designs of her Leeda brand are all made here from locally sourced materials, often using traditional handicraft techniques. This chic Old Town boutique also displays jewelry by Czech artists, and Lucie herself is often around to talk to clients. leeda.cz/

TRADITIONAL TOYS

Take a wide berth past the kitsch souvenir stalls outside Prague Castle and track down the nearby Rocking Horse toy shop, an utterly charming emporium dedicated to the famed Czech tradition of artisan wooden toys and games, with marionettes and folk dolls, musical boxes, and 1950s-style tractors and cars. Adults will be just as entranced as children, especially by Krtek, The Little Mole, a beloved local equivalent of Mickey Mouse created during the Communist era.

LUCERNA COMPLEX

Several of the grand mansions of Prague’s Nové Město (New Town) conceal entrances to splendid Art Nouveau passages lined with enticing boutiques and cafés. The ultimate secret treasure to visit is Lucerna Palace, built in 1907 by the family of famed Czech President and playwright Václav Havel. Decorated with lustrous stained glass, ornate marble, and wood carvings, the entertainment and shopping complex boasts an art house cinema, dance hall, antique stores, art galleries, and above all the magical Lucerna Café. lucerna.cz/cz/

OLD JEWISH CEMETERY

Prague’s historic Jewish quarter, Josefov, dates back a thousand years and is home to some of Europe’s oldest, most splendid synagogues. But while the flamboyant Moorish-style Spanish Synagogue draws the crowds, slip away for a moment of reflection in the neighborhood’s Old Cemetery. Holocaust victims have an official memorial in the Pinkas Synagogue, but this 500-year-old burial ground is a more intimate monument to Prague’s Jewish community — a rambling, overgrown garden, dotted with more than 10,000 headstones. Walking quietly through this reminder of the past is a moving experience. jewishmuseum.cz/en/info/visit/

VRTBA GARDEN

Prague is an architectural miracle, taking visitors on a unique journey through the medieval to the contemporary. But gardens are few and far between — unless you push open a discreet gate hidden away in romantic Malá Strana that conceals the perfectly preserved gardens of the Vrtba palace. Designed in the 1720s, this idyllic green space rises up in gentle terraces, decorated with fragrant flowers, bubbling fountains, and striking Baroque statues. vrtbovska.cz/

Prague’s magnificent castle dominates the historic center, but take the time to head off the beaten track to the 10th-century Vyšehrad, or Upper Castle. On a rocky promontory overlooking the River Vltava, this was the original seat of Prague’s ruling Czech princes, and as you look down on the city and drink in the spectacular panoramic views, there’s a real feeling of being far from the crowds below. Entrance is free, and this fortified citadel also hosts a lush park with an ancient Romanesque rotunda and neo-Gothic basilica.