Vienna

Vienna is a city for all seasons, but its cobblestone streets jostling among a tapestry of architecture are especially enticing in the fall. History has always waltzed with modernity here: the former heart of the Habsburg Empire and also the home of psychoanalysis and Modernism. Once you’ve visited the opulent Habsburg Palaces, it’s worth venturing to some of the city’s lesser-known neighborhoods.

HIDDEN SPEAKEASY

You need to ring a doorbell to enter this intimate, mid-century styled speakeasy at number 7 Buchfeldgasse. No menus here: pull up a seat, and after a brief consultation, the bartender will mix a bespoke concoction that specifically suits your palate. The library of liquors features all the usual suspects, as well as rare and intriguing bottles. Email to book a table, or perch at the bar to watch the magic happen. tuer7.at/

SCHNITZEL IN A SECRET GARDEN

In an 18th-century house that opens onto the cobblestone streets of the trendy Spittelberg neighborhood, Amerlingbeisl’s magical courtyard covered with vines and lanterns is a sanctuary for food lovers. The menu is Austrian with a contemporary twist — try the organic pork schnitzel (or better yet, veal, if it’s on the specials board) served with Austrian potato salad, or Brettljause, a plate of local cheeses, cold cuts, pickles, and dips traditionally served in Vienna’s vineyards. Plan ahead — reservations are a must. amerlingbeisl.at/

COFFEE AND STRUDEL

Vienna’s oldest Kaffeehaus, Café Frauenhuber, has been running for two centuries in a 300-yearold building and, according to legend, played host to Mozart and Beethoven. It’s often overlooked for more famous counterparts such as Central or Hawelka — so take advantage of the lack of crowds and slip into a velvet booth to order a Melange, an espresso topped with steamed milk and foam, and a flaky Apfelstrudel, before whiling the afternoon away people-watching or playing chess. cafefrauenhuber.at/

SATURDAY FLEA MARKET

Just one block west of the famous Naschmarkt’s food and produce stalls, in the shadow of Otto Wagner’s Art Nouveau Majolikahaus, sits one of Vienna’s most scenic outdoor markets. On Saturday mornings (6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.), some 400 sellers set up their stalls, peddling curiosities from grandfather clocks and antique chandeliers to vinyl records and quirky pocket watches. Brush up on your German to negotiate a bargain that tells a story.

A MUSICAL EMPORIUM

An institution in Vienna, and an intrinsic part of the city’s musical history, 200-year-old Musikhaus Doblinger is famous above all for its sheet music, with an extensive stock of hard-to-find scores. You don’t have to be a musician to appreciate its charmingly old-fashioned shop floor, though, or the graciousness of its staff and the wide range of music-related gifts, from CDs and jewelry to composer busts. After an opera or concert, make a beeline here to pick up a piece of Vienna’s musical heritage to take home. doblinger.at/en

THE ART OF FASHION

Austrian fashion designer Romana Zöchling specializes in merging fashion with art. Her playful, creative style has drawn the attention of actors and musicians, including Austria’s 2019 Eurovision entry, whose costumes she created. In the buzzy Neubau district, her boutique Ferrari Zöchling stocks limited-edition couture designed in collaboration with local artists and handmade on-site — ideal for those seeking a modern, yet uniquely Viennese, wardrobe update. ferrarizoechling.com

TAKE A DIP IN AN ART DECO POOL

Visitors to Amalienbad might be forgiven for thinking they’ve stumbled onto the set of a Wes Anderson movie. Originally opened in 1926, these public baths are wonderfully Art Deco, from the blue-tiled pool to the two-story viewing galleries and the impressive vaulted glass roof. Once you purchase your ticket — pro tip: ask for a private changing cabin — and enter through the turnstile, the choice is yours: relaxing laps, joining the communal sauna — its rotunda vestibule boasts a plunge pool, striped loungers, and a kaleidoscopic ceiling — or performing a daredevil dive from the highest board. wien.gv.at

VIENNA’S GOLDEN BEAUTY

Your decision to journey through the Viennese suburbs to Kirche am Steinhof, perched on the edge of the Vienna Woods, will be amply rewarded. The church is a modernist masterpiece, designed by Otto Wagner and built in the early years of the 20th century — its golden dome is visible from many parts of the city, and up close you’ll be able to take in the Art Nouveau angels and glass mosaics by Koloman Moser, as well as views over the valley to Schönbrunn Palace. You can only enter the church on weekends, but even the exterior makes this light hike worthwhile. wienmuseum.at/otto_wagner_kirche_am_steinhof_en

ART MEETS ARCHITECTURE

With undulating floors, columns covered in glazed ceramic, and trees growing from niches, the Kunst Haus Wien is no ordinary art museum. Avant-garde artist and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser brought it to life in one of his iconic buildings, just down the road from the celebrated Hundertwasserhaus, and his artworks within are no less astonishing than the architecture: irregular swirling forms bursting with color and texture. kunsthauswien.com/en/

Vienna is one of the few capital cities with its own wine region. Head to the northwestern suburbs for scenic strolls through lush vineyards — the most famous route is Stadtwanderweg 1, which leads up to Kahlenberg, Vienna’s highest peak, and the Vienna Woods, before descending through the Nussberg vineyards. Stop for a refreshing glass of wine, either at one of the vineyards — Mayer am Nussberg is a favorite – or a Heurigen, a tavern serving local young wines and culinary specialties unique to Vienna.