The black cab is a London icon. As Julia Pearey explains, London’s taxi drivers are also a rare breed, with a remarkable understanding of the city’s layout and heritage
London’s distinctively boxy and high-roofed black cabs date back to the horse-drawn carriages of the 17th century, when Oliver Cromwell established the Fellowship of Master Hackney Coachmen.
Like New York’s yellow taxis and Bangkok’s tuk-tuks, London black cabs are hailed in the street rather than prebooked, but that’s where the similarity ends, for the only way to become a black cab driver in London is to study and pass the Knowledge, a rigorous training and examination process.
In his introduction to The London Cabbie’s Quiz Book, author and former taxi driver Ian Beetlestone recalls how his own training began:
“‘Has anybody here got a degree?’ demanded the examiner as he opened his introductory talk on the Knowledge of London at the old Public Carriage Office in October 2008. One or two of us in the room sheepishly raised our hands. ‘Well, this is harder,’ he boomed in his stern cockney accent… ‘Let me tell you – this is the hardest thing I’ve ever done.’”
One longstanding member of the capital’s elite band of licensed black cab drivers is Sean Day. He joined the profession 25 years ago, drawn to the combination of freedom (cab drivers are self-employed and set their own hours) and stability (they’re always in demand). “I love London and the Knowledge really connects you to the city,” he says, while acknowledging that the process can be daunting.
The Knowledge of London assessment involves memorizing the intricate layout of London, including streets, landmarks, and routes, so that drivers can navigate efficiently without relying on maps or satnav systems. It typically takes around three years to complete, including a series of tests in which drivers are given two locations and asked to describe the most efficient way to drive between them.
“It’s nerve-racking because you have to recite them orally,” recalls Sean. Thousands of points of interest and key landmarks also have to be learned, and the fledgling cabbie will devote months to trawling the streets, memorizing the locations of everything from theaters, shops, and restaurants to flower stalls, statues, and blue plaques.
The tests become increasingly difficult and frequent, with most drivers taking 12 assessments in total. Though the process sounds arduous, it gives the drivers a genuine pride in their city. As well as being awarded a certificate, successful drivers gain a coveted Green Badge, which means they never need to be retested unless they let their license lapse.
“Just driving around is revision enough,” explains Sean. “There’s a deep sense of pride rooted in being a black cab driver that comes from the achievement of completing the Knowledge.”
The black cab’s iconic, voluminous design presents a reassuring sight. Customers know they can step in easily, laden with luggage or shopping bags. And cab drivers are a great source of sightseeing tips. Sean recommends Leighton House, the former Kensington home of the artist Frederic Leighton: “A stunning example of 19th-century art and architecture.” On weekends, he would suggest visiting the Square Mile – the financial district of London, much quieter when the office workers are away. “You can see huge skyscrapers next to medieval and Victorian buildings – it’s wonderful.”
Customers know they can step in easily, laden with luggage or shopping bags. And cab drivers are a great source of sightseeing tips
Given how well he knows London, what’s the one thing he’d do on a free afternoon? “Go to Postman’s Park tucked away in the Square Mile. It’s a green space with a memorial commemorating individuals who have sacrificed their lives for others, and that makes it a lovely reflective spot away from the city’s hustle and bustle.”
The number of black cab drivers has dipped significantly in recent years, but the Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan, who is the head of Transport for London, is working on a new action plan to safeguard their future.
“Black cabs are more than just a means of transportation,” Sean says. “They’re part of London’s unique heritage, cultural richness, and identity.
“They’re a point of interaction between locals and visitors – drivers often share stories, recommendations, and insights about the city. Cabbies love to have an opinion; they love to engage with people.”