Mine's a Pint!

Matthew Curtis offers a user’s guide to London’s historic pubs

What comes to mind when you think of a London pub? Perhaps it’s an image of atmospheric dark-stained wooden fixtures, gleaming brass tabletops, foam-crested pints of amber ale, and – if you’re lucky – the orange glow of an open fire. Maybe it’s a place where you picture everyone from politicians and city bankers mixing with students and street traders amid a chorus of conversation. All of this is true. The pub is undoubtedly the best place to experience London as its purest, most authentic self.

Shortened from “public house,” a pub is just that: a place where anyone is welcome. Although most are centered on an offer of alcoholic drinks – in particular beer – the modern British pub has something for everyone. This often includes a menu of classic dishes such as fish and chips or steak and ale pie, but can also include fine wine, expertly made cocktails, and more.

Most importantly, pubs are not places where you simply go to consume alcohol. These are social spaces first and foremost – somewhere you can enjoy life at a slower pace, in the company of good friends. I find that they are best enjoyed with a pint (or half a pint) of local ale. As there are more than 100 independent breweries in London, the choice available is often as varied as it is delicious.

Named for historical connections to sovereigns, aristocrats, and landowners – or sometimes after local history or landmarks – the history of pubs in Britain can be traced back to Roman times. Today, London is home to more than 4,000 pubs, so there are plenty to choose from. You might pick one for a relaxed lunch, and then move to another for music and revelry until the small hours. In London there is a pub for every occasion, but knowing your Kings Arms from your Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese requires a little insider knowledge so that you can make the most of your experience.

Unlike restaurants, the majority of pubs don’t require you to book a table (unless you are heading to one specifically to dine, in which case I would recommend booking ahead). Most operate bar service, so once you’ve found a seat, head to the counter to order as you go. Tipping is not mandatory, but is very welcome. And while not all pubs offer food, most sell snacks from crisps (chips) and nuts to hot pies and (if you’re really lucky) pickled eggs. Pubs are social spaces, so it is normal to spark up a conversation with a local, which is one of the best ways to learn more about the area you’re visiting, or potentially the pub itself.

Clerkenwell’s Sutton Arms (16 Great Sutton Street) is the perfect example of a classic London pub. It’s been under the ownership of father and son Mick and Jack Duignan for more than 30 years, and offers local beers in a distinctly traditional setting.

Close to Trafalgar Square is The Harp (47 Chandos Place), a beer lover’s paradise and the recipient of multiple awards from the Campaign for Real Ale. If you’re looking for a livelier atmosphere, then Soho’s The Devonshire (17 Denman Street) might be the spot for you. It is popular with Instagrammers (largely due to claims it serves the best pint of Guinness in town), and while the pub downstairs is good, the restaurant above is unmissable thanks to the care of chef/landlord Oisin Rogers.

For something more traditional, Cittie of Yorke (22 High Holborn) is a Grade II listed building, which means it is considered to be of special interest and must be preserved by law. It has reportedly stood here since 1430, but its medieval-style beer hall is slightly more modern, having been reconstructed in 1923.

A little further afield you’ll find the kind of pubs where locals drink, such as The Robin (29 Crouch Hill). This neighborhood gem is as popular with ale lovers as it is with Gen Z revelers. For an unforgettable meal, Hackney’s The Marksman (254 Hackney Road) remains one of the best offerings in the city.

The Prospect of Whitby (57 Wapping Wall) offers a traditional pub lunch and views of the River Thames. At low tide you might even spot people mudlarking from the beer garden, but beware the hangman’s noose that still hangs from the gallows behind the pub – a memory of London’s darker history. It’s best we head back inside for another pint.