Urban Elegance

Gillian Rhys Krause walks through the most vibrant and varied neighborhoods of Singapore

Famous for spectacular architecture and lush green spaces, the thriving city-state of Singapore perfectly blends East and West. Explore its various boroughs, where old and new combine in a range of multicultural traditions, lively festivals, and diverse cuisine.

While many of the striking Art Deco buildings here have been converted into an engaging assortment of boutiques, galleries, and cafés, some of the old kampong (village) feel remains.

The “uncles” and “aunties” (a fond term for older Singaporeans) still eat congee outside Ah Chiang’s Porridge. And the longstanding Tiong Bahru Market is considered one of the best in Singapore. In a city where the hawker centers are so highly rated that everyone eats at them no matter their walk of life, that’s quite the feat. The food center even gets name-checked in the Michelin Guide.

At the same time, there’s often a line of locals stretching around the corner of Eng Hoon Street for the freshly baked croissants and bread at Tiong Bahru Bakery, a collaboration between a local businesswoman and a French master baker.

Wandering around the streets and lanes is part of the experience in Tiong Bahru, and many of the walls feature murals depicting the old way of life. There are also several galleries showcasing contemporary Southeast Asian artists, such as ArtBlue Studio, White Space Art Asia, and LivingwithArt.

These two entwined enclaves on the East Coast are steeped in Peranakan – a mix of Chinese and Malay heritage. Current-day Baba and Nyonya (male and female Peranakans respectively) are descended from southern Chinese who married Peninsula Malaysians.

While the pretty pastel-colored shophouses are a nod to the prosperous Peranakans’ heritage, a trio of them dotted among the boutiques and eateries allow visitors a deeper insight. The Intan and Katong Antique House are both private museums (bookable in advance) packed with artifacts giving a captivating look at Peranakan culture. The Intan’s engaging owner also hosts authentic Nyonya meals from his mother’s recipes. Rumah Bebe (also by appointment only) in another shophouse, recognizable by its bright, clashing colors, is a lifestyle boutique, crafts workshop, and restaurant serving lunch Thursday to Sunday. 

Even if you don’t manage to get a booking to dine, you’ll find plenty of Peranakan cuisine eateries in the area. One of the more modern experiences is Baba Chews, which serves a Western twist on Nyonya favorites.

Singapore’s sprawling Chinatown is located right next to the gleaming CBD, but looks a world apart. Instead of skyscrapers, there are eye-catching temples and rows of handsome historic shophouses, but these days they’re filled with restaurants, bars, and boutiques. The neighborhood is an easy destination for city professionals to decamp for lunch or after-work drinks and into the evening.

Some of Singapore’s most exciting Asian-fusion fine-dining restaurants are here. Among them, Lolla offers modern European cuisine with Asian influences and is helmed by one of Asia’s most talked about female chefs; while Born, housed in a former rickshaw station, serves a Chinese-French tasting menu (open for dinner only). Book a table at the open kitchen counter at either if you can to see the chefs at work.

Come the evening, the bars of Ann Siang and Club Street fill with locals. A little off the beaten track, Cat Bite Club, hidden at the back of café Monument Lifestyle on Duxton Road, and Native, on the second floor of an Amoy Street shophouse, create unique takes on classic drinks.

During the Hindu festival of Diwali, lights are festooned across the main thoroughfare of Little India, but it’s a vibrant neighborhood to visit year-round with elaborately decorated shophouses and temples.

In the small streets on either side of Serangoon Road, Singapore’s Indian community shops for groceries and spices as well as saris, jewelry, and flower garlands in the stores and covered markets. You may want to avoid Sundays when the area is particularly busy.

The Banana Leaf Apolo and Muthu’s Curry are both popular places to eat – the former is known for its tandoori chicken and the latter for fish head curry.

Jalan Besar (which means “big road”) has become trendy for its cafés. Popular spots for locals are Asylum Coffeehouse, Moonchild for brunch, 5 The Moments for desserts, and Cold Break for ice cream with Asian flavors.

Named after the trees that once populated the area, Kampong Gelam was originally home to the Malaysian community. It’s now a hub for creative locals, though many reminders of its heritage remain.

The magnificent Sultan Mosque with its golden domes and minarets looms over small pedestrianized streets. Palm-tree-lined-Bussorah and vividly tiled Kandahar are particularly picturesque. Haji Lane is an alley of shophouses decorated in clashing colors and vibrant murals. The quirky boutiques within, popular with Gen Z, tend not to open until midday, so head out earlier for a quiet vibe.

A great place to try the Malaysian classic dish nasi lemak is The Coconut Club on Beach Road. It makes its version of the fragrant rice dish with fresh coconut milk from a single Malay plantation.

Singapore boasts several award-winning cocktail bars, but one of the originals is Bar Stories, tucked away on Haji Lane. There’s no list – just tell them what you’re in the mood for and they’ll craft the perfect pour for you.