Colombian Gem

Usaquén is an upscale yet bohemian neighborhood of Colombia’s capital city of Bogotá, where artists, street performers, and locals mingle

Every weekend (and on holiday Mondays) the historic streets of Usaquén fill with the booths of local creatives showcasing their talents and wares. The largest artisan fair in Latin America, expect to hear languages from all around the world, while the smell of freshly brewed high-end Colombian coffee permeates the air. It’s a pleasure to casually wander, checking out colorful hand-knitted woolen scarves, oil and watercolor paintings by local artists, and stylish hats and handbags made from caña flecha, a palm tree native to the Caribbean coast.

Fronting Usaquén’s glorious 17th-century whitewashed colonial church and shaded by ancient trees, lively Usaquén Park is the beating heart of the neighborhood. During the day it draws families, couples, and picnickers – enjoy a guarapo, freshly squeezed sugarcane juice, from a street vendor and relax on the gentle grassy slopes – and in the evenings acoustic musicians play. On weekend market days look out for tango dancers, hip-hop performers, and street theater groups taking over the central pavilion.

From a vintage sofa in the garden patio, order a velvety-rich cappuccino and enjoy the people watching. Always buzzing, this charismatic art-adorned café has been at the center of Usaquén’s social scene since it opened more than 30 years ago. Lightly grilled-to-a-crunch croissant sandwiches make for a breakfast or afternoon quick bite, while a mug of steaming vino caliente, a tongue-tingling cinnamon and clove-spiced hot red wine, is the perfect afternoon treat, even on summer days when temperatures are moderate here, at 8,858 feet above sea level.

The Bogotá outpost of Peruvian Chef Gastón Acurio is an architectural and gastronomic wonder. Natural light floods the high-ceiling dining room, which is circled by a sleek bar with views over the restaurant. Take a seat and dive into sliced-to-order tiradito, Peruvian-style sashimi, before feasting on bubbling hot parihuela de mariscos, a stew based on seafood flown in from the Pacific coast, thickened with ripe tomatoes and turbo-charged with rocoto chilies.

Learn the difference between dark, light, and spiced rums the best way – by sampling them all – at this swanky rum bar situated in a beautifully restored brick casona (historic mansion) right off the main park of Usaquén. The first rum distillery founded by women in Latin America, the Pedro Mandinga Foundation is devoted to sustainable practices, buying sugar directly from small family farms and using a unique distilling method that saves water to produce fine rums. Chat to the friendly staff in the warmly lit bar on the first floor, take a bottle up to the plush couches of the second level to sit back and enjoy, or hit the third-story rooftop deck with views over the city.

Built in the late 19th century, the Hacienda Santa Barbara was once the home of a rich cattle baron and exudes a majestic colonial ambiance. That makes it the perfect setting for a high-end shopping mall for Colombian luxury brands such as Vélez (for leather jackets and shoes) and Chevignon (for denim). Leafy inner patios open under breaks in the century-old red-tile roof to house cafés and lounges. Try a carajillo, coffee with a shot of rum, to refuel between shopping trips. Declared a National Monument by the Colombian Government in 1985 and frequented by local actors and politicians, it’s a must-visit.